Sunday, May 18, 2008
Scaling Up Bio-Diesel

The euphoria from last month’s experimental production of bio-diesel has subsided not a bit and has moved to a more practical level of scaling up. Foday Kamara our equipment manufacturer has a firm FINIC and he has siezed on the idea whilst Ismael Bangura couldnt seem to commit just yet.
The subject of fuel however is a hot one at the moment with the price and availability becoming critical issues. The obvious advantages of bio-diesel manufacture are not lost on many Saloneans because there is an entire dependency on imported fuel. The erratic supply and spiraling costs of the imported stuff are the most immediate spurs to the push for manufacture, induced by a financial profit.

The environmental advantages and spin offs are additional discussion points that have a less critical but nonetheless profound potential impact.
The experiment in Binkolo was publicized far and wide. The two Canadian journalists working for JHR both aired separate radio reports. I took part in what turned out to be a 1.5 hour discussion group, broadcast over Radio Maria with a huge response from callers to the program.


The next day, Ismael Bangura and Foday Kamara were both interviewed about their intentions and expectations. Kamara in particular was articulate. UN radio, the main national broadcaster, interviewed me one morning. The whole notion of fuel manufacture in Sierra Leone has induced some excitement and we are encouraged to move this along.
I prepared the business case and outlined the risks for the two groups The

Binkolo food processing group headed by Ishmael were somewhat cautious because of the investment that needs to be made in equipment and materials. I was disappointed since I and others had supported them. However agricultural equipment manufacturer FINIC controlled by

Foday Kamara was more than keen to make the needed investment in money, time and effort.


Kamara has a farm where he also does small scale manufacture located in a small village Masumana. The village is about 50 kms from Freetown and on the way to Makeni; an ideal location because of the main road access.
Last week we got together again to plan the next experiment and the scaling up. We agreed to order the chemicals, methanol and potassium hydroxide from a UK supplier. Kamara has plans for a 1,500 liter reactor compared to the puny existing 200 liter job.

I met an agent in Freetown who is prepared to do the importing / customs paperwork (read bribes) and so the stage is set.

Yesterday the order was placed and we should see the shipment in Freetown in a month. I wont be there (probably a good thing) but I am confident that Kamara will take the reins very capably. Kamara meanwhile has been experimenting on small scale machinery that uses simple, single stroke engines.

He has been delighted that the palm nut oil, crudely separated from the glycerin by using soda is sufficient to run these engines for two weeks without a problem.


A small farming group was invited to Masumana last week and having seen the presentation they have agreed to plant a new crop known as Jatropha. The bush locally known as Fignut Tree has traditionally been used for medicinal purposes. However it is ideal for oil production since it is not only high in production but it is not a competitive food source, and is not consumed by other animals. Importantly it grows in an arid climate. So in a couple of years we should have a good supply of home grown oil and hopefully a new small industry.


Monday, April 14, 2008
Bio Diesel

Well it seemed all too easy in the end as we drove off with the Binkolo vehicle literally into the sunset, intoxicated with the sweet success of motoring under the power of palm nut oil.

Actually the first noticeable difference was the surprising fried fish exhaust smell. Certainly no difference in power and engine noise and the town could still hear the whooping and hollering from the happy band of bio-dieselers being transported on a lap of honour. We had won the “Stanley Cup”.
There is still a way to go before this can be called a new fuel supply for Binkolo or Salone but the practical demonstration has had a huge effect on many and the enthusiasm will hopefully carry this through to a small production stage. Nonetheless the impact of the event was quite momentous and could definitely have long reaching effects. I see as most important, a potential new industry based on a small scale, suitable for village level production. A stable local fuel supply available at a controlled price - actually the cost of production was 44c per litre instead of the retail fossil fuel price at $1.11. Another biggy here is the advantage of an inexpensive alternate cooking fuel instead of using the forests. The soft facts that bio-diesel is a renewable energy and that the emission is carbon neutral is not that important to Saloneans but nonetheless significant I think.
It seems that bio diesel has not been tried yet in Salone. Many have talked about it but the combination of chemicals, equipment availability and experience have prevented others from getting going.

Our success was that we eventually had put together a team of differing skill sets as well as a good dose of dogged determination. Actually it was a fun thing to do as well. The NGO installing the solar equipment at the library was also keenly interested in the Binkolo result and they will be a good conduit for others.
The idea was mooted quite a few weeks ago when it became obvious that the Binkolo vehicle uses expensive fuel and my conversation with another VSO volunteer Maria who told me over a Star beer in Freetown that she had produced bio-fuel back home in Philippines that was used to power their vehicle. I didn’t need any more encouragement to move this idea along and Ishmael seized on it immediately. A search of instructional material on the internet revealed a few good sites in particular
http://www.journeytoforever.org/. It became clear that in our poor country the chief hurdles were getting the chemicals and the right equipment. The search was on for the chemicals and after quite a treasure hunt and more than a few bribes we managed to find 4 litres of Methanol and 5 kilos of Potassium Hydroxide (enough to make a good bomb I think). Maria had met a local agricultural machinery manufacturer Mr. Kamara outside Freetown and we paid him a visit one morning on the way to Binkolo. Mr. Kamara’s eyes lit up at the prospect of potential new customers for equipment but he was more than enthusiastic about the bio-fuel story. It was heartwarming to have such a great new team member.
Ismael Bangura is the manager of the Binkolo Growth Centre and he is Mr. Enthusiasm. He quickly had several bags of palm nuts amassed for us to take to Kamara for crushing.

Actually the nuts are a by-product of the palm kernels and are normally fed to pigs or used for fertilizer – see an earlier blog story. To get the oil from the nut, a crushing machine is needed that Mr. Kamara at FINIC luckily has in

operation at a village, Masumana about 90 miles away.

We loaded up the truck and the nuts and spent a great day watching the crusher in action. We ended up with 20 litres of oil and a by product of this process is fed to the pigs.

The last step is the processing of the oil using the chemicals and for this we needed to build a reactor. A meeting with advisory team of Maria, Mr. Kamara and me took place a couple of weeks ago where we sketched out a design based on Maria’s experience and the internet info.

I went with Kamara in search of a suitable container and I saw his amazing workshop where old vehicles are taken apart and made into an assortment of agricultural machinery.

This was perfect for the job of building something using a mecano type

assembly becau

se much of the design was rough, needing a trial and error approach – and there were quite a few trials. Eventually and with much excitement, the finished reactor was hauled up to Binkolo for the big experiment early yesterday morning.
Ishmael meanwhile had assembled the required laboratory equipment of beakers and measuring instruments, strainer and he had even managed to locate an electronic measuring scale with the help of a local high school

teacher Mr. Lamin Kargbo.

It turned out that Lamin was keen to join the team and will be an important part of the small incubator industry. A large ventilated room was set aside at the Growth Centre to host the big experiment. The reactor was set on a platform and last minute adjustments were made to the equipment needing the blacksmithing skills t

hat Sadiqe a polio victim has been taught.

Actually the whole scene was quite amusing. Here we were hoping to compete with the big oil producers in the back yard of a small village and using an untried collection of old car parts, old pipes and taps attached to a used chemical container, all put together in an image downloaded from the internet.


Nonetheless we were fuelled by much excitement, with much of the local community looking on, wondering what on earth we were up to.


The various steps were followed with trepidation and fear in particular the handling of the chemicals.

The assorted mixture safely poured into the reactor signaled the need

for the engine to start the required 1 hour of continuous agitation.


There were several moments of breath holding but the process went perfectly – perhaps a few design changes needed but the reactor seemed to do the job.

The mixture needed a few hours to settle and so we sat under the mango tree sampling the local palm wine “poyo”, while speculating on the results and the impact of the whole experiment. The more the poyo the greater the speculation but it was fun.

With some confidence spurred on by the effects of the poyo I invited some reporters actually Canadians, Mackay Taggart and Rachel Borlese who happened be working in Makeni for an organization, Journalists for Human Rights.

We were having fun and what the hell, even if the results were not what we expected. They thought the story was worthy and having people Kamara and Ishmael Bangura talk glowingly about the idea and process, would reinforce their energy to keep trying.
Much excitement surrounded the various tests that were made. Lamin had some litmus paper and the acidity to our relief was low. A second wash test revealed a good separation of the fuel from the water within 30 seconds all according to the internet information despite the fact that more settling was recommended.

One of our problems in the reactor design was that the glycerin wasn’t fluid enough for the plumbing system to handle and so an indelicate and messy decanting of the diesel was required. Nonetheless we had what we thought was diesel fuel and the big moment and risk had to be taken.
All of the fossil fuel was drained from the tank of the Binkolo truck and replaced with the bio diesel.


Tension was high and a crowd by this time had gathered around.


The ignition initially failed to get the engine going but worried looks and much breath holding were rewarded by the familiar rumble of the engine and then cheers. Wow the feeling was great. Everyone piled into the vehicle and we were off, gingerly at first but then cruising around the streets of Binkolo. What a wonderful feeling.

The unsaid feeling of potential freedom, independence and empowerment were not missed on the faces of the local stakeholders, Ishmael Bangura and Kamara.
Missionaries of Charity

Here in Sierra Leone there are no social safety nets and the need for urgent housing and feeding for the destitute is a critical function. Unlike developed countries Government here is neither capable nor able. The Missionaries of Charity offer a really remarkable and heartwarming service under difficult conditions.

They are Catholic missionaries who offer service to the poorest of the poor, based on the teachings and example given by the famed Mother Theresa from Calcutta. The Mission in Makeni was started in 1989, well prior to the war and the nuns here maintained the mission throughout, even suffering the death of 4 of their Order.
I have had the opportunity to chat with Sister Rikta on several occasions.

Together with other VSO volunteers we put together a Christmas Party, and since then we have chatted about the needs of the Mission.

This afternoon we talked again and I took John Keating a fellow volunteer from Ireland.

On previous occasions I have been asked about my own beliefs and I have found it wonderfully refreshing to find that my openness about my atheism has not offended and rather we have had a really involved discussion with humour and directly about religion. John today joined in the discussion and we had a great debate.

The Mission in Makeni is quite small and houses 110 including 60 children. These people are really in desperate need and Sister Rikta refers to these people as the dying destitute since they suffer from disease including HIV/AIDS, TB, Polio, whilst some are just seriously wounded.

Many of the children are severely malnourished. Sister took us on a tour and the plight of these people is obvious.

In addition to the residents, the Sisters also feed about 200 others who simply turn up each day for a meal. I see these visitors each day as I work in the adjacent Makeni City Council building. Many are blind, suffer from mental illness, or are physically disabled.

Obviously these people are not cared for. I am unsure if or how they are housed but they arrive in a terrible state and the Sisters carry out a wonderful service.
About two weeks ago I found the Sisters trying to find the mother of a small 10 year old girl along Teko Road. A local hospital had to discharge the disabled girl to the care of the Sisters since the mother just hadn’t turned up. A small piece of paper with an address was the only clue. However the mother could not be found. This is a common story unfortunately. Families just can’t afford to look after the infirm. It is really very sad and the Sisters again perform a wonderful service.
The Mission facility is small and there is not much open space.


The Makeni City Council has offered some land now forming part of the Council property so that the facility can expand the open space.

The Plan has been approved and I have seen the survey. This is quite heartwarming for a Council dominated by Muslims and with a Muslim Mayor.

As I have said on previous blogs I find that the embracing (not just tolerance) of other religions to be a particularly impressive characteristic of Sierra Leone and sets an example for many other parts of the world.


The donated land needs to be walled and Sister Rikta has asked me to help with the quotations for costs at about $9,000.

I find that the conviction of the Sisters is the most inspiring aspect of the Mission. They seem to function, as Sister Rikta explains, more on a philosophy of Divine Intervention, that somehow her God will provide. The costs of the Mission seem to be met by charitable people everywhere. It is a magnificent example of how people can come together to help.
Monday, March 24, 2008
The Binkolo Pickup

Well the Binkolo vehicle is off and running, already finding uses for its practical hauling ability even though the food processing plant is not yet operational.

Local people here in Makeni are amazed at the new motor gracing the streets (a non NGO vehicle here is quite a rarity and attracts a huge attention as I am finding out).

Ismael Bangura the food processing manager beams and crows as proud as a peacock to the crowd walking and vending on the streets.

The “official” hand over hasn’t yet taken place but the anticipation is building. I just need to give some instruction and practice on the gear shifting to the manager. Thanks to all those in Canada who contributed.
The vehicle is needed for the Binkolo Growth Cenntre a new food processing plant so that raw goods - cassava and palm

can be brought to the centre and that the finished products can be taken to market.

In

addition the “Growth Centre” teaches artisan skills such as blacksmithing,

tailoring and carpentry and the

resulting goods are then sold, so the vehicle is also useful transport for the entire project.

The Binkolo vehicle was found in Freetown, the only place in Salone where vehicles are bought and sold. It had found it’s way from the Netherlands and was clearly not a new vehicle, a rather unusual pick up, a Nissan Cabstar. The most popular line seen on the streets are white ex-NGO Toyota 4 wheel drives that typically fetch a premium.

The Binkolo ugly duckling stuck out like a sore thumb but I liked it. The main reason was that the ugly duckling would be difficult to later convert to cash. My “paddy” Desmond seemed to have good experience at repairing and maintaining old vehicles - a good skill to have in Salone since there are very limited new cars. So a deal was struck and the dealer was happy to have the space on his lot.

Desmond undertook some repair work; sprayed for rust protection, and did the usual servicing and we took delivery. Driving around Freetown is a bit scary since there are few rules, very narrow roads, enormous traffic and so Desmond was my instructor. The vehicle was soon put to work gathering palm fronds to roof a market. A bunch of VSO volunteers had organized a market on the beach for some of the local clothing sellers and some wood carvers etc. The intended customers being the wealthy UN and NGO personnel and this lot seemed to have good interest although not much to spend. Perhaps another time. The market structure was taken down and hauled by our Binkolo pick-up to be stored for another time.

I drove the vehicle to Makeni early one morning when the traffic was lighter, a 4 hour journey.

I arrived to an excited Ismael Bangura waiting at the City Hall.

It was impossible to hide his emotions and pride as others at municipal office were looking on. We took a spin through town to shouts of amazement and on to rural Binkolo about 6 miles away.

The village seemed to be expecting us somehow and came out to greet the new arrival.

An obvious delight to all, the shining vehicle was shown off to the paramount chief and other dignitaries. I presented the key attached to a Canadian flagged lanyard and this signified the hand over to an appreciative crowd. I was informed that this was not the “official” presentation and that there would be a larger formal affair to be arranged. Saloneans love their formalities and long speeches – I cant wait (not).
As we all know fuel is a major cost of running a vehicle and in Sierra Leone at $5 per gallon it is huge,

especially when it takes most people 5 days to earn enough to pay for a gallon.

I recognized the problem in the morning when I found the gas tank had been siphoned of its content. I immediately went to the Binkolo blacksmith and had a chastity belt type of arrangement put around the tank; and the battery housing.

A discussion with one of my VSO colleagues about the problem revealed that she had some bio-diesel production experience in her native Philippines. For Binkolo this could be a huge boon and an additional industry.

Maria is employed in an agricultural community near Moyamba but suggested that she could help us. The plant to be grown is called Jatropha and is common here, used for medicinal purposes but not a usual crop.

Maria came to Binkolo and gave instruction for the demonstration of the planting and cropping. I went to investigate the machinery needed for the seed crushing.

We then went on a treasure hunt in Freetown for the chemicals needed (Methanol and Potassium Hydroxide) to convert the oil to diesel. No luck so far. The chemicals are common and used in laboratory testing – as well as bomb making I am told.

A developing country such as Salone has such poor facilities that everything needs to be imported and this seems to be a huge problem. I can import from the UK but the transit time is several months – too late for me.

I am still hopeful of finding a supply in Freetown but it is only a feint hope. Nonetheless from what I have read and learned bio-diesel seems to be a worthwhile venture for a country like Salone to ensure security of supply and at a reasonable production price, I estimate at $2 per gallon.
Having a vehicle here is a huge business advantage in that the impression of the operation is enhanced considerably. One of the outcrops is that customers see the Binkolo Growth Centre as having the facilities to organize and deliver. Certainly having the name advertised on the side of the vehicle works I believe.

CARE a large international NGO has now ordered 2,000 pieces of farming implements that can be made by the blacksmiths. I know the people at CARE and they were impressed that the growth centre has a vehicle and they much preferred to have implements made here rather than import from abroad.
Yesterday (Good Friday) we had a wonderful day transporting by the vanload a local female football team to a match in Binkolo.

I became a “hockey Dad” again. I met then team last year and have sponsored the things they need. Ibrahim the amputee coach I have written about

previously was keen to take the team and I agreed to offer the transport. The kids piled into the back of the pickup and off we travelled to Binkolo, with much chanting and singing. Wonderful.
Lastly the progress of the food processing facility is moving along but slower than I had expected. The people at UNIDO (United Nations Industrial Development Organisation) have now a requirement for adjustments to the building, a small amount of work but a delay of several weeks since all work takes much longer than in “The West”.

I met the UNIDO official yesterday and she was helpful but would not release the equipment needed to start production. However she was keen on the bio-diesel production and she pointed me in a different direction for my quest for the chemicals. Off to Freetown again.
Monday, February 25, 2008
NAIOP Community Service?

Trevor Marks called me yesterday afternoon and reminded me that he was going to attend the Rex Awards, and I was being recognized for a Community Service Award. I felt a bit awkward since I am not in Toronto; Makeni in Sierra Leone is not exactly near Toronto and nor is there any similarity apart from an Atlantic Coastline. I feel a bit guilty since I am having such an enjoyable adventure; yes the pay is lousy but the payoff here is that I can contribute to meaningful advances, learn a great deal and broaden my horizons. Community Service sounds like self sacrifice and I feel a little guilty since, rather the opposite of sacrifice, I have indulged in rewarding experience and adventure.

I also feel more than a little guilty because I haven’t been keeping up the blog. I’ll try and make amends. In any case it is a nice boost to know that people are thinking of me in such a far away place on a cold dark wintry night in Toronto.
I have been here since November on a return VSO placement and there have been some encouraging successes but also some disappointments. I have been able to further my revenue mobilization work very successfully in Makeni as well as move other diverse projects along such as helping to start a food processing plant, helping out at an association for polio victims, a library program and other interesting ventures. It is not difficult to get involved here.

I was expecting to come to an agreement with the World Bank to extend the work I started in Makeni through to other urban centres. It seems that agreement only now seems to be firming up. Here you learn to accept the frustration that time goes very slowly; and sometimes backwards. So over the next two weeks I’ll be travelling around to Bo and Kenema so that I can train the administrations to set up the same program of property taxation as Makeni.

Some have asked me how my expertise fits into a poor county’s need for relief. In a poor country such as Sierra Leone (GDP $300 per person versus $32,000 for Canada) there is the usual need for health care, education and help with agricultural production. There are legions of people working through NGOs that compete to provide these services but I am horrified that health care is still poor beyond description, education is dreadful, expensive, and mainly for boys of more wealthy families. Agriculture is small scale and worked on a subsistence basis only. Overall, not a good picture but there has been some improvement. My work is with a nascent local government where I help to organize and mobilize the revenues. The need to provide basic services such as waste management, roads, cleaning, fire service, police etc. is critical to the stability of communities and potential investment. In working toward the millennium development goal of reducing poverty The World Bank have been promoting decentralized government and the raising of own source revenues.

I also see this poverty reduction happening in a practical sense, certainly in Makeni where there is lately a greater confidence and some risk taking by local builders and businesses in the erection of new buildings including a new hotel and even a new bank. In Canada and other western countries we tend to take government for granted but in “developing countries” good governance seems to be a key need to encourage important confidence and development. My initial work creating a system and training the administration in Makeni has been rewarding, even more so that the central government and World Bank have taken note, boosting my confidence by the offer of funding (at last) to go to other urban centres.

There is a large amount of food produced here in Makeni but limited variety. I seem to be happy with a steady diet of cassava root and leaves, plantains as well as various gourds, lots of fruit, and rice all cooked in palm oil. Lack of refrigeration and food processing means that much of the local crops are spoiled on the way to market. There are nonetheless a surprisingly large number of undernourished kids.

I have been learning a lot about food processing and have gotten involved with a small start up operation doing the business end and coming up with ideas of organisation.

The Binkolo Growth Centre (see my previous blog article) will process palm and cassava products. A bunch of Canadian donors have pooled together and we have now bought a much needed truck.

An idea that I am following up is the conversion of palm and a new crop jatropha kernels into diesel fuel. With gas at $7 per gallon this makes a lot of sense, and for me it is all fun and stimulating.
The local library has been the source of much fun and diversion while I deal with other frustrations.

I have organized a Saturday morning kids

session doing painting, games, and telling stories.

Other VSO volunteers and some NGO people are able to help out and I hope that it becomes a permanent fixture.

Reading is not part of the local culture and so an encouragement, especially for children is needed. It is really

rewarding to see the kids have so much fun in a new way.


There are still quite a lot of polio victims in Makeni since the “free” vaccinations are not universally applied nor available. This is particularly sad since there is much funding for other health interest groups such as HIV/AIDS and Malaria.

I have become involved with an association helping to organize some funding, equipment and some employment (at last) with the Makeni Government.
There is lots more but I’ll finish this here as I hear the Imam call for evening prayers and I am reminded that I have to cook dinner for some friends. I wish all at NAIOP a successful evening. Thanks a lot for the Community Service recognition although as I have said, on a personal level I am enjoying the challenges and the satisfaction beats the reality of having to work at Altus for a while.
If anyone has questions or comments I love to get e-mails at
pjfishing@yahoo.com.

Wednesday, January 23, 2008
Binkolo Growth Centre

Binkolo Growth Centre is a small industrial project near Makeni where the manufacture of small farm implements, tailoring, carpentry and blacksmithing takes place, and includes the use of disabled people. I am assisting with the expansion of the centre to include food processing of local cassava and palm oil products. One of the Makeni City Councilors is the manager of the Binkolo Growth Centre and I think this project has good prospects for success.
Background
Binkolo is a small farming community located about 10 kilometers north of Makeni. Makeni is the main urban area serving the north of the country with a population of about 110,000. Prior to the war there had been a small centre for minor amount of food processing as well as a skills training centre for tailoring, blacksmithing and carpentry. As with so much else, the war halted production and much of the Binkolo Growth Centre property was destroyed. The war ended in 2002 and efforts at recovery have been slow.

The UN agency UNIDO proposed the funding of a new and a rehabilitated building in 2005 although the process of discussion actually started in 2003.

Construction



finally got underway in February 2007 and based on my recent site visits completion is pretty close and the contractor is keen to earn his remaining 50% holdback!!.

Production at Binkolo
Food processing is to be initially focused in two areas, cassava and palm products. Cassava is a major local crop and staple food for most of the population, second only to rice.

There is some small scale food processing plant for rice in the area.

The oil from palm trees is also a basic product used in everyday life such as cooking oil, soap etc., and has the potential as an alternate fuel for vehicles. Food processing has not developed in Sierra Leone despite the fact that agriculture is the dominant sector of the economy.

Subsistence farming is the main activity. Most products like cassava need to be consumed or processed within 2-3 days of harvest and as a result losses are reported to be high, as much as 50%. Food processing allows for greater yields even using simple technologies, increased storage capacity, greater production efficiency with the result that smaller losses result. Presently processed foods are imported from Europe and the Middle East and are expensive and not viable. A focus on two locally produced and successful crops is thus ideal as a basis for food processing.
Food science technology in Sierra Leone is poorly staffed and trained at the moment.

At Binkolo the initial processing will be simple such as grinding, drying and packaging of the cassava root as well as the extraction of palm oil from the kernels. However an institution Njala University (yes it is called a university!) that I have visited in the City of Bo has started a training program. This should see the establishment of laboratories and contribute to food testing, implementation of standards and the training of food processors on food safety. With these skills now being taught, a broader range of food processing can be introduced such as jam processing, juicing and bottling etc.
In addition to the food processing capacity, the centre will also expand the training of local people in the artisan skills such as blacksmithing, carpentry, tailoring, weaving, soap making, as well as basic farming etc.

These skills are already taught at Binkolo although the facilities are very basic. Students are typically male although there are some female tailoring students and attracting female students is a stated priority. I was moved to see that some of the students are polio victims as well as war time amputees. Earlier in the year I ordered about 1,000 pieces of hand implements for some local farmers and these were made reliably by the students of Binkolo. The implements such as hoes, spades, cutlasses and watering cans are still in use. The training function seems to me to be an excellent way to encourage the youth to participate rather that to become restless through unemployment.
The market area into which the products are to be sold is the entire region outlined on the map.

Apart from my Revenue Mobilisation tasks I have been pretty busy moving this project along and getting a lot of satisfaction from seeing the completion of the building.
Monday, January 07, 2008
Returned

Well, I have been here for just over a month without finishing and posting a blog and so I am feeling guilty. I have some catching up to do having started many a time. I am here until May as a VSO volunteer again although in order to advance my work to other centers I will need the backing (money) of the central Government. I have been spending quite a bit of frustration time stitching up an agreement with the Government and their backers – The World Bank. Unfortunately other plates that I was trying to keep spinning have fallen and I will have to find some other plates. More about that later.
Back in the land of the Cotton Tree it’s much easier the second time around.

Everything is familiar but it is still bloody hot and humid here and it’s easy to forget the chilly parts from whence I had come. Today my overactive sweat glands were only calmed when I had the good fortune to find an air conditioner at a Government Office in front of which I worshipped for a good half hour before my meeting. The locals seem to cope but nonetheless everyone carries a small towel.
Travel to West Africa is always an adventure and this time was no exception. The BA plane didn’t carry food and I survived (in secret) with Mum’s sandwiches but there was quite a riot. At Freetown airport at a dark 9pm the only option to get into town was an old Russian helicopter since the hovercraft and ferry had broken down and I didn’t relish camping at the airport.

The craft had been stripped down to the rivets and seemed like something out of Vietnam – quite unsettling. The 15 passengers were strapped and seated in panels along the walls with luggage held in the centre. Flight was initiated by an immense rattling and shaking, an incredibly noisy washing machine experience, requiring fingers in the ears and tongue firmly in the mouth. My religious beliefs were tested during the 7 minute ride and relief was palpable as the craft reached terra firma. I won’t do that again.
My home town Makeni, still appears ramshackle and quiet but familiar and warm. Formal welcome messages were delivered by members of the Council and all sorts of recognition in shouts of “Kalloop” (Fish! in the local Temne language). It’s nice to be home.
I have a new house, very small with 3 tiny rooms but it was recently erected and made of concrete more like the class A property that I showed to those in Canada. I share the house with another VSO volunteer from Kenya; Tomkin. Tomkin is here for two years to assist with the application of irrigation technology in agriculture. Living and sharing with someone from a different culture is quite a challenge but it is also interesting to learn. The house has no electricity or running water as usual and the well is some distance away. We have hired the services of a young lad on whose head comes a few buckets of water each afternoon.
At work the objective has been to reinforce the regime of applying the program of property tax and business licenses. Very little work had been done since I had left at the end of June. Good reasons were that everyone was distracted by the lead up to the General Elections in August, the rainy season was particularly rainy and that the valuation officer Mr. Williams was unwell. In any case just going through the routine again should hopefully kick start the remote control since I am unlikely to return. I am hoping that the young fellow that I am training, Adikale, will become proficient in the access driven software application within a short period of time.
Thus far I have been able to generate all of the tax bills for the beginning of the year again scrounging the facilities of a UN Agency.
I am hoping that I can now justify the purchase of a new printer for the City of Makeni. I had to print 7,300 sheets each with it’s own individual calculation. These then had to be delivered. Last year delivery was a major headache but this time around Adikale had this under control, hiring several young people and

using some council staff. The job was done in about 3 weeks and without much of my input. The Chief Administrator was impressed and I was delighted. Meanwhile I have been organizing the radio interviews again on each Tuesday evening with Councilor Bangura and open public meetings in each of 7 wards for January.
The valuation officer Mr. Williams who I think is about 50 has been quite unwell and I wasn’t sure if he was going to make it to Christmas. I went to visit him in “hospital”; not a pleasant experience. The small dark building was in poor shape with bare and dirty concrete floor and it was crowded with people. I was shocked to see that there was more than one person per bed. This is surely a very poor country. Mr. Williams greeted me and we chatted briefly and he graciously accepted my gift of a bunch of bananas. He remains in the hospital and I should go and see him again over the next few days

One highlight of the pre-christmas celebrations was that we put on several parties for children in Makeni.

One of the VSO volunteers

Maria from Philippines organized the Christmas parties

with puppet shows, carol singing (frosty the snowman sounded a bit funny in 35C weather) and playing

frisbee.

We gave new shoes as well as some biscuits and sweets to everyone as a gift and this went down very well.

Two of the

parties were held at the Catholic Mission where there is a school / home for the deaf as well as a home for the very needy.


They do good work it seems.

The third party was held at a “therapeutic feeding centre” and I wasn’t prepared for the shock of meeting these kids and their mothers face to face.

Nonetheless everyone enjoyed the parties even the vso volunteers and others who came along.

I am glad I raided the Canadian Tire of all remaining frisbees last

November since these went down really well.
Over the Christmas holidays I have been spending some time with some vso volunteers in Freetown.

Up until Christmas there was no electricity but now there is now an almost continuous supply what a luxury.

We have even watched some movies. There is now an occasional supply of piped water. It seems that all these conveniences have something to do with the new Vice President who lives close by. Freetown however is a dreadful place as I have described before.


Much of the City of about 2 Million lives in a shanty of corrugated tin shacks all crowded close to the shoreline and hemmed in by a range of hills. Several rivers wind their way down to the sea and along the banks even more shacks are illegally squeezed. Streets are narrow, lined with ditches for sewage and to say the least the streets are not pedestrian friendly.

There are no sidewalks and the traffic of exhausted poda podas, smelly trucks, assorted old cars, taxis and important NGO landcruisers take seeming delight in targeting the lowly pedestrian especially after dark. There obviously used to be better times in the past since I have spotted several old disused traffic lights.

Some areas higher up the hills and to the west have a good collection of obviously better homes with barricaded security walls that would make Colditz seem friendly.

By awful contrast there are some “poor” neighbourhoods close to the shoreline where legality of ownership is questionable and where even the local police don’t go.

I visited Susans Bay just out of interest.

These neighbourhoods seem to have their own street policing.

Expansion of

these areas is being made by filling in the shore with garbage and the pressure is apparently coming from those moving from the rural areas.


Living in the “bush” is tough but I cant think how it would be better than these awful conditions.

Shopping is usually done along the major arteries from small shops, from stalls lining the streets in front of the shops and from lively markets.

The west end has three or four supermarkets that sell a good range of foods obviously catering to the large population of ex-patriots working for the UN or the large NGO

community.

This is where the VSO house their volunteers and the location is still rough but a darn sight better than Susan’s Bay.
More about those plates. Well my job it seems is to spin a whole pile of them and a couple of big ones seem to have fallen. My programmer at UNDP has decamped back to Norway as has the GIS guy Bernd who returned to Germany. Their sudden end of service was caused it seems by a blunt and abrupt cutting of service by Civil Service minded policy. There is no replacement and I have to scramble. Both people are trying to help out and I have found a new programmer at VSO, Howard. Other plates that have fallen or have serious cracks are the lack of support for Adikale who might decamp from Makeni, Councilors who are busy now with campaigning and don’t want to take action against defaulters. Thus the system breaks down. The Paramount Chief came to my rescue and he is joining my radio show to urge the contribution to the community development by payment of taxes. Here he is in his court or “Barrie”.
More later.
Friday, June 22, 2007
Recollections
